Chitral is Pakistan’s hidden gem at the North-Western Tip, close to the stunning Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan. It has traditionally traded more with Jalalabad and Kabul of Afghanistan, as compared to Dir of Pakistan. This is because of the natural barrier of Lowari Pass that separates it from the rest of Pakistan. It was this elusiveness and geographical isolation that fueled my curiosity to see the land where Alexander the Great roamed.
I had been hearing of the Kalash people for a long time and upon one extended weekend, we finally decided to see the place. We didn’t plan too much except for looking for things to do in Chitral, booking a one-night’s stay in the city, loading 15 liters of drinking water, compiling a nice EDM playlist, and arranging some refreshments. We left Rawalpindi at 0530 in the morning.
Google Maps indicated a travel time of 10.5 hrs. However, it took us more than 14 hours to get there despite going through Lowari Tunnel. As soon as we crossed Malakand top, I was transported back in time when Winston Churchill was posted here and he took part in the anti-insurgent operations which he called ‘barbarians’. The drive to Dir is easy considering the road is metalled. If you leave early, the traffic in town centers will not slow you down.
We had lunch at Dir and left immediately for Lowari Pass. I was low on diesel and decided to drive through the under-construction pass. The tunnel was so dark that my lights hardly traveled a few yards ahead of my 4×4. Fortunately, it was a good decision as Chitral city was a further 3.5 hours after the tunnel, and it was getting dark soon.
Immediately after the Lowari tunnel ended, we were met with quietness. Peace and tranquility were on the other side. Gone was the hustle-bustle of the road, only clear water flowed beside us. The temperature dropped a few degrees as well. Half an hour short of Chitral was the beautiful summer palace of the ruler of Chitral. Legend has it that Kalash people had ruled the valley centuries ago from this palace.
We reached Chitral close to sunset while driving over the suspension bridge donated by Princess Diana. Chitral was a quiet city, relatively clean. We settled down in our accommodation and rested for the night. The temperature was quite chilly at that time in the winter.
The next day we caught the first glimpse of Tirich Mir, the highest peak of Hindu Kush at 7100m, in golden light. The Chitral River is fed by Tirich Mir. The British officers stationed at Chitral have documented the adjoining valleys around Chitral, with its ski slopes and wildlife (mountain goats). It is an interesting read.
We went to the Royal Palace (ShahiQila) and the Mehtar’s home. It had been commandeered by the British after their botched attempt at regime change went awry in the 19th century. At one time, the Chitral River flowed alongside it. Now, it has gone far away.
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